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Online Help? Video Tutorial?

 
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Scouter66



Joined: 27 Sep 2012
Posts: 23
Location: Whitefish, MT

PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 7:41 pm    Post subject: Online Help? Video Tutorial? Reply with quote

Hello!

I am very new to the VW world. I was gven two old beetles that have been parked for some time. One is supposed to have a good engine and tranny, the other, no engine. I purchased a 1969 good roller with a bad tranny and no engine. I need to remove the engine and tranny from the one and put them in the 69 roller after removing the bad tranny. I found instructions on removing the engine. Does anyone know of a way to tell if the tranny is good without installng it? I could use any type of instruction I can get for all of this... online...? [/img]
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motofly196



Joined: 23 Jun 2008
Posts: 436
Location: Medical Lake

PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The short answer...No. Unfortunately, as many of us know all too well...it's a crap-shoot. Sometimes you get lucky and end up with a good transmission. Most often, that is not the case.
Other than visually checking for cracks/ holes in the trans/ especially the bottom if it was on the ground for any period of time. Make sure to install an input shaft seal (cheap insurance) and in your case...a nose cone seal. And make sure there are no tears in the CV boots and hope for the best!
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ONEBADBUG



Joined: 25 Oct 2003
Posts: 417
Location: Spokane

PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drain the oil, look for chunks on the magnet. You can put a spare clutch disk on the input shaft, put vice grips (carefully so as to not mar it up) on the shifter, and turn it by hand, going through the gears. You still won't know til you drive it, but if it fails to go through the gears by hand, it's got a problem.
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Scouter66



Joined: 27 Sep 2012
Posts: 23
Location: Whitefish, MT

PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ONEBADBUG wrote:
Drain the oil, look for chunks on the magnet. You can put a spare clutch disk on the input shaft, put vice grips (carefully so as to not mar it up) on the shifter, and turn it by hand, going through the gears. You still won't know til you drive it, but if it fails to go through the gears by hand, it's got a problem.


THAT sir is a phenom idea! That's what I'm talking about!

THANK YOU ONEBADBUG!!
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sandals



Joined: 27 Oct 2008
Posts: 401
Location: Sandpoint, I Don't Know

PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, once you have all of the oil drained out, take a bright flashlight and do a visual inspection of everything you can see through the drain hole. As I recall, you can see second gear and it's synchros, and a bunch of other stuff. It's still not a guarantee, but if you see obvious chunks missing or rust or whatever, it can give you an idea of the internal condition.
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Scouter66



Joined: 27 Sep 2012
Posts: 23
Location: Whitefish, MT

PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sandals wrote:
Also, once you have all of the oil drained out, take a bright flashlight and do a visual inspection of everything you can see through the drain hole. As I recall, you can see second gear and it's synchros, and a bunch of other stuff. It's still not a guarantee, but if you see obvious chunks missing or rust or whatever, it can give you an idea of the internal condition.


Thanks Sandals! If there is any other tings anyone can think of please let me know!

Anything on line or elsewhere for instruction before I just dive in?
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sandals



Joined: 27 Oct 2008
Posts: 401
Location: Sandpoint, I Don't Know

PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2012 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scouter66 wrote:
sandals wrote:
Also, once you have all of the oil drained out, take a bright flashlight and do a visual inspection of everything you can see through the drain hole. As I recall, you can see second gear and it's synchros, and a bunch of other stuff. It's still not a guarantee, but if you see obvious chunks missing or rust or whatever, it can give you an idea of the internal condition.


Thanks Sandals! If there is any other tings anyone can think of please let me know!

Anything on line or elsewhere for instruction before I just dive in?


I know of nothing online. I am old school.
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Scouter66



Joined: 27 Sep 2012
Posts: 23
Location: Whitefish, MT

PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya, but not so old school as to miss this VW page! I am as well but unfortunately not so schooled as many of the folks on this page in the ways of VWness! OJT! It's for me! It all begins saturday!
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ONEBADBUG



Joined: 25 Oct 2003
Posts: 417
Location: Spokane

PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 8:33 am    Post subject: How to remove the engine and transmission Reply with quote

OK, here goes:
You need a floor jack, 2 jackstands, 17 and 27 mm socket, 8, 13, 17mm box end wrenches, a 17 mm gear wrench, a 12 point allen driver, a big screwdriver, a Philips screwdriver.
Do not remove the engine lid.
Engine.
Disconnect the battery, 13 mm end wrench. Jack up the car by the mount between the engine/transmission, or the front trans mount. Put the jackstands under the torsion tube area. Remove the air cleaner. Undo the barrel clamp that holds the accelerator cable, the barrel clamps (underneath) for the heater cables, and the generator hot wire, all 8 mm end wrench. Some generators have a big spade connector. Unhook all the rest of the wires, and lift them up out of the way. Take a picture first, so you know how to put them back. Reach behind the fan shroud, passenger side, with the 17 mm gear wrench and undo the top engine bolt. If the engine is single port, do the same on the left. If itís dual port, use the 17mm socket from beneath, near the clutch cable. Take off the rear engine tin by removing the screws, and removing the heater hoses. You donít have to, but itís easier to get the engine in and out. In fact, if you are rebuilding the engine or whatever, go ahead and remove the distributor and carb, no reason to wait. Remove and plug the fuel line under the car right where it goes through the front tin, drivers side.
Put the floor jack, probably with a piece of wood on it, under the engine, so it wonít fall out. Undo the two lower 17mm nuts that hold the engine in. Pull the engine straight back until it is clear of the transmission input shaft. Then start lowering it down while tipping the top away from you so the generator clears the rear apron. Once the generator pulley is clear, level it up and come down all the way. Now you have to lift the car high enough to get the engine all the way out. Two big floor jacks is the best way, but most people donít have that. So, whatever you gotta do.
Transmission.
Return the car to the jackstands.
Undo the clutch cable wing nut. Take a little pick and clear all the gunk out of the allen head bolts on the axles. Every time you put the driver in a bolt, tap it in with something. If it does not have full engagement, it will strip, and you are screwed. Sometimes the bolts are 6 point allen, you have to check first. You can undo only the transmission end and leave the axles there if you want. Remove the cover plate under the back seat where the pan widens above the trans with the Philips screwdriver, then unhook the shift rod from the trans by removing the grub screw, 8 mm end wrench. Underneath, undo the two bolts that hold the front mount, doesnít matter if itís the ones between the mount and the body or the mount and the trans, or all 4. Look about 6 inches rear of the front mount for a metal ground strap, undo that with the 13 mm end wrench. Undo the two 27mm bolts holding the rear mount to the pan. Put the floor jack under the middle of the trans, and slide it straight out.
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sandals



Joined: 27 Oct 2008
Posts: 401
Location: Sandpoint, I Don't Know

PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only things I would add to that process is that I prefer to remove the lower bellhousing bolts first, so the engine is hanging from the top bolts and not stressing the bottom bolts with its weight.

I have also never removed the front tin to pull an engine.
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Scouter66



Joined: 27 Sep 2012
Posts: 23
Location: Whitefish, MT

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:44 pm    Post subject: Re: How to remove the engine and transmission Reply with quote

ONEBADBUG wrote:
OK, here goes:
You need a floor jack, 2 jackstands, 17 and 27 mm socket, 8, 13, 17mm box end wrenches, a 17 mm gear wrench, a 12 point allen driver, a big screwdriver, a Philips screwdriver.
Do not remove the engine lid.
Engine.
Disconnect the battery, 13 mm end wrench. Jack up the car by the mount between the engine/transmission, or the front trans mount. Put the jackstands under the torsion tube area. Remove the air cleaner. Undo the barrel clamp that holds the accelerator cable, the barrel clamps (underneath) for the heater cables, and the generator hot wire, all 8 mm end wrench. Some generators have a big spade connector. Unhook all the rest of the wires, and lift them up out of the way. Take a picture first, so you know how to put them back. Reach behind the fan shroud, passenger side, with the 17 mm gear wrench and undo the top engine bolt. If the engine is single port, do the same on the left. If itís dual port, use the 17mm socket from beneath, near the clutch cable. Take off the rear engine tin by removing the screws, and removing the heater hoses. You donít have to, but itís easier to get the engine in and out. In fact, if you are rebuilding the engine or whatever, go ahead and remove the distributor and carb, no reason to wait. Remove and plug the fuel line under the car right where it goes through the front tin, drivers side.
Put the floor jack, probably with a piece of wood on it, under the engine, so it wonít fall out. Undo the two lower 17mm nuts that hold the engine in. Pull the engine straight back until it is clear of the transmission input shaft. Then start lowering it down while tipping the top away from you so the generator clears the rear apron. Once the generator pulley is clear, level it up and come down all the way. Now you have to lift the car high enough to get the engine all the way out. Two big floor jacks is the best way, but most people donít have that. So, whatever you gotta do.
Transmission.
Return the car to the jackstands.
Undo the clutch cable wing nut. Take a little pick and clear all the gunk out of the allen head bolts on the axles. Every time you put the driver in a bolt, tap it in with something. If it does not have full engagement, it will strip, and you are screwed. Sometimes the bolts are 6 point allen, you have to check first. You can undo only the transmission end and leave the axles there if you want. Remove the cover plate under the back seat where the pan widens above the trans with the Philips screwdriver, then unhook the shift rod from the trans by removing the grub screw, 8 mm end wrench. Underneath, undo the two bolts that hold the front mount, doesnít matter if itís the ones between the mount and the body or the mount and the trans, or all 4. Look about 6 inches rear of the front mount for a metal ground strap, undo that with the 13 mm end wrench. Undo the two 27mm bolts holding the rear mount to the pan. Put the floor jack under the middle of the trans, and slide it straight out.


Wow! Now that's instruction! Thank you OneBad Bug! I'm printing this out!
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Scouter66



Joined: 27 Sep 2012
Posts: 23
Location: Whitefish, MT

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sandals wrote:
The only things I would add to that process is that I prefer to remove the lower bellhousing bolts first, so the engine is hanging from the top bolts and not stressing the bottom bolts with its weight.

I have also never removed the front tin to pull an engine.


Thanks for the input as well Sandals! I have never removed the tin either.

MUCH LESS THE ENGINE! Shocked
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